![]() The function of the Main Circuit Breaker is to protect most of the electrical wiring. In either case, the Main CB is (essentially) getting power directly from the battery with no other devices interrupting that flow. There was still a heavy gauge wire to the Starter/Solenoid terminal, but then the lighter gauge wire ran from the Starter/Solenoid terminal to feed power to the Main CB. However, for some models the wiring was slightly different. ![]() ![]() On most Sportster models, power from the battery positive terminal is sent to the high current terminal of the Starter/Solenoid using heavy gauge wire (for maximum power during starting) and another, lighter gauge, wire from the battery positive terminal is sent to the Main Circuit Breaker. This AC output is fed to the Voltage Regulator (VR) which converts the AC to Direct Current (DC) and limits (regulates) the voltage level of it's DC output. When the engine is running, the Rotor magnets rotate around the coils of the Stator, producing an alternating current (AC) output. The achieved voltage output of the Battery and/or Regulator, under load, will vary according to the existing charge level of the battery, load of the bike circuitry and the Stator output from engine RPMs. Under light load the battery will read 12.5v and under heavy load (starting the engine) it will read 10.5v or more. Refer to your FSM for detailed wiring diagrams, procedures & tests for your specific model.Ī fully charged, good battery, with no load, will show 12.7v - 13v DC when measured on a multimeter. Some model wiring diagrams are in the Sportsterpedia. Although later models have a more complicated distribution scheme, the charging components and operation are functionally the same for all models with alternators (Stator/Rotor). The overview diagram is representative of a typical system and not exact for a specific Sportster model. Voltages are typical with exact values varying under differing circumstances. This description includes the concept that power flows from the most positive source to the lesser positive connection (sometimes thru various devices) and eventually to the negative, ground, point. ![]() For that reason, this explanation ignores the scientific facts of actual electron flow when conceptualizing the charging process, relationships and power distribution. Additionally, the Hub1 delays the power to the accessories for 10 seconds after the ignition is switched on to allow the starter motor to have access to the full cranking power of the battery – a real boon in low-battery situations.Note: Most people think of electricity in regards to voltage (as power), with power flowing from positive to negative to complete the circuit. The Power Hub1 allows for the installation of switched power delivery for five accessory circuits of up to 15 amps each (as long as the total doesn’t exceed 40 amps). Since I’ve covered the installation of switched accessory power, Powerlet electrical sockets, and proper wire splicing in previous articles, I’m going to focus on what the Innovv Power Hub1 brings to the party. Portable Power: How To Install Powerlet Electrical Sockets Turn On: How To Install Switched Accessory Power To Your Motorcycle MO Wrenching: How To Properly Splice Wires Why is it so special? Well, it allows for switched power to be distributed to up to five accessories from one location – which translates into just one switched connection to be spliced into a bike’s wiring harness. (Just ask my long-suffering wife, whose patience in my current home automation project is wearing quite thin.) So, you shouldn’t be surprised that, at every weekly production meeting for the past couple months, I’ve tried to schedule a review of the new Power Hub1 from Innovv. I’m a gadget guy, and quite frequently, those around me have to suffer through endless conversations about the latest shiny technology that has caught my eye.
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